Mesmerizing Ride To MENCHUKA

When Delhi based photographer Tiatemjen Jamir (aka Tia) heard that it was not until 2010 that a remote village called Menchuka was connected by road, he knew he had to ride there. Turned out there were others heading that way from his hometown in Dimapur, Nagaland. 

Nestled at 6000ft, the Menchuka Valley is surrounded by rugged mountains and the Siyom River runs through it. But getting to this relatively unexplored place in Arunachal Pradesh turned out to be an unforgettable adventure. Here is the first hand story by Tia on his 1400km's adventure with the Naga Chiefs MC.

The Nagaland Motorcycle Club with The Double Karma's of Arunachal

We struggled on the highways of Assam where buses didn’t care if we were on the road or off it. Some seemed like they were intentionally trying to run us over! We crossed the Brahmaputra on a boat with our bikes strapped on, and in spite of the constant chugging of the boat engine, the hour long ferry ride was quite serene and calm.

Crossing the Mighty Brahmaputra River

We rode on unfamiliar mountain roads through the night, where at times we just wanted to quit and set up camp. Riding all night on pothole-ridden roads in the rain was my new definition of pain. 

Tough Ride - Good Times

Riding like that, we had numerous breakdowns, mostly minor, except for one. The bike was irreparable and had to be left behind and trucked back. My headlight fused so I had to resort to a ‘headlight’ strapped onto the helmet.

This was the first day! One would think all enthusiasm to ride again would have long disappeared as we weaved through the mountains struggling to stay awake, cold, wet and hungry.

I’d be lying if I said I didn’t question what I was doing there but there was sense in all the chaos. As Robert M. Persig puts it: “You look at where you're going and where you are and it never makes sense, but then you look back at where you've been and a pattern seems to emerge.” 

What struck me most about the trip was the spirit of camaraderie that developed over the course of that week on the road. Again, I had never done such a long ride, that too in the company of nine people, most of whom were strangers to me. But riding together seemed to bring down walls we sometimes build around ourselves. We rode as one, forgetting boundaries and differences. It was phenomenal! 

Multi talented biker ensures there is plenty for dinner!

After the first leg of the trip it was mostly smooth sailing. We arrived at Menchuka after dark so it wasn’t until the next day that we got our first look at the place. Nestled at 6000 feet, we were in a valley surrounded by mountains and the Siyom river, locally called Yargyap Chu, flowing close by.

Fresh Fish Fry

We camped by the riverside, which was a short ride from the town. The walk to the campsite wasn’t far from where we parked our bikes but it was challenging. Walking with our tents and equipment through slush and a very questionable bridge that swayed with every step, threatening to snap at any moment plunging us into the icy waters below. Once we got to the campsite all seemed calm, or so we thought.You see, there are normal leeches and there are ‘leeches’ that feed off of cattle. We unfortunately had the privilege of sharing our camping ground with the latter. They were monstrous! So after locating higher grounds (leeches apparently can’t crawl uphill) and dousing ourselves, and our tent surroundings generously with chewing tobacco (one will believe just about anything to find comfort) we got on with roughing it out!

The snow capped mountains were a beautiful backdrop as we crossed rivers and rode dirt trails; one leading us to the 400 years old monastery with statues and artifacts believed to be as old as the monastery itself. 

The last man standing, like an outpost 
just before Chinese territory begins.

It became evident to me that motorcycling isn’t about conquests and achievements. It goes beyond the stickers and badges we have on our jackets and bikes. To me, it’s about the journey and the overwhelming experience while on the road with just 3 feet of metal and rubber separating rider from the ground.

That was what Menchuka was to me. My initiation wasn’t about the trial by fire. Nor was it the adrenaline rush part of it. And it definitely wasn’t the “Wow! I’ve been there and done that” part of it. It was the simple, and sometimes complex connection I shared with my bike as it carried me through unfamiliar places and the experiences that it brought with it.

4 Tips When Riding Through North East India: 

1) ENGAGE the local bikers as far as possible. They know their state best. Tia says “Without Karma Tsering and Karma Wangdi's invaluable help we would have missed some great trails that only locals know about". 

2) EXPECT the unexpected. Like bike breakdowns and other delays due to weather or road conditions. 

3) ENJOY the diverse terrain…don’t rush it. Stop to fish and cook it. Tia says “We rode through the thick tropical forests into the tea estates. Took a boat across the Brahmaputra river. Then into the tropical jungle road…then as we climbed the rolling mountains with grand Himalayan peaks in the background…very different to the landscape people are used to in J&K or Uttrakhand or Himachal…”

4) EXPLORE not just the landscape but stop long enough to hear the local stories. Such places have a lot to teach. Its not about ‘conquering’ but about allowing the adventure to awaken and engage your soul.

Route (1400 km approx.)

Day 1: Dimapur – Bogibeel ferry ghat – Kareng ferry ghat – Silapathar (border) – Aalo (Along) – 22 hours

Day 2: Aalo – Menchuka

Day 3: Menchuka – Camp site

Day 4: Camp site – Menchuka

Day 5: Menchuka – Aaalo

Day 6: Aalo – Silapathar

Day 7: Silapathar – Dimapur

(All photos owned by Tiatem Jamir - used with permission) With special thanks to the fellow bikers from Arunachal, Karma Tsering & Karma Wangdi. The Nagaland Motorcycle Club members: Yanger Imchen, Sanen Imchen, Rovi Sangma, Michael Yanthan, Sunep Jamir, Vikesalie Keditsu & Wiza.