Motorcycling - Italy to Australia: How was Pakistan?

Balochistan Levies escorting Alex & Teresa

I have always wondered what it would be like to ride across Pakistan and into Iran and onwards. It seems the closest I will get in this generation is through second hand accounts from European bikers who cross into India via the Wagah border. All of them consistently speak of the hospitality of Pakistani people, the food and culture. I recently had the joy of spending couple of days with Alex Taìri Castellano and Teresa Caprino, riding their BMW1200GS from Italy and heading into Singapore and then across into Australia.

Delhi Biker (DB) How many days were you in Pakistan and how was it entering from Iran? 

Alex: We were in Pakistan just seventeen days in total. Got in from Taftan. Iran was super efficient…people are hardworking and most part of our journey we had a police escort. At the Iranian border at Mirjaveh, the immigration office was modern and tidy. Our paperwork went smoothly and then they opened this iron-gate and our escort ordered, “Now go!”

The first impression at the Pakistani border was a stark contrast to what we had just left in Iran. It was very crowded. There was dust and sand everywhere. Lots of poor people…I think they were mainly Shia pilgrims returning from Karbala, Iraq. But there were thousands of people and it was loud.

Now imagine our loaded BMW entering this dustbowl and sea of people and I am trying hard to be discreet and quite. And then as soon as we ride in…suddenly everything went deathly quite. For about a minute everyone was silent and it was pure panic for us!

The policemen in Italy to Iran dress like one. But in Pakistan this shalwar kameez guy appeared suddenly, told us to park our bike…took hold of us and led us through this crowd.

Huge guy, hacking his way through people…actually beating people away with a baton…we entered this crowded office and they quickly helped us with the paperwork. But the entire ten minutes I was expecting to arrive back to find no bike….

I was imagining the crowd having sucked the bike away…I had left everything outside, including my tank bag. We returned to find what looked like a circus scene…you know, when a lion tamer has a whip and he keeps a dozen lions in check! This policeman was protecting our bike and hitting anyone who drew near it!

A Multani rides past the Mausoleum of Rukn-e-Alam

DB: Wow! Sounds like an adrenaline packed start for you. How was your first night in Pakistan?

Alex: It was evening so we had to spend our first night at the police station. Besides us there were actual criminals. The funny thing was, these criminals were seated on the ground like all of us…not behind bars. But the police had AK47’s and if anyone tried to run, no questions asked, it was shoot to kill. So no one dared.

That night we slept in our own sleeping bags inside the office. Outside some of the criminals we chatted to were actual motorcycle thieves…ha ha ha…they stole mainly 100cc’s so our 1200 really impressed them.

DB: I have heard that all who drive their own vehicles are given police escort all the way to India. Is that true? How was that?

Alex: Even though it is for the foreigners’ protection…it is a major pain. Your police escort changes every ten km’s. Now over a 2500km’s journey, you do the math. That was the nightmare for us. You get the same twenty questions asked over and over again. "How much bike cost?", "Why you riding?", "What you do?"... 

Not just that, everyone wants a photo with you, with the bike…it was stressful. And who is going to say no to guys with guns.

Quetta had to be the worst place in Pakistan…in a nutshell it was hell on earth. We rode in on day two and the main street was not tarred…there were no streetlights and the only light was coming through shops. It was very surreal.

Then our escort vehicle changed from a normal pick-up to a fully armored truck. We had to stay just few meters behind it. Which meant we inhaled its black fumes the whole time. And the guy with the Kalashnikov had it unlocked and aimed just above our head…with the road being so bumpy we were convinced any moment could be our last.

In such a scenario, you cannot deviate and sight see. You just have to keep riding.

And we rode straight to Hotel Serena. Quetta’s only five star hotel which was more like a military fort…with three levels of security check.

I imagined Kabul would be like this but Quetta was full of army…lots of weapons and roadblocks.

But when you get past the hotel security it was like entering another country. You go from sand and smoke into this space of three-piece suits and serenity.

It was here, in this hotel lobby that an elegant lady met us. Invited us to stay at her place in Lahore and that was an amazing experience. The food and hospitality was incredible!

Teresa looking over the city from a Minaret in Old Lahore

DB: Most five star hotels are like a different world but in Quetta it must have been incredible. What was your next stop?

Alex: Actually, after Quetta the following three days were a total blur for us. By the time we reached Multan we were so exhausted we rested for four days. It is a beautiful place…but quite polluted.

Then our next memorable stop was the Harappa ruins in Sahiwal district in Pakistan’s Punjab. That was a worthwhile stop.

Our final week was spent in Lahore and as I mentioned, the lady from Quetta hosted us and took great care of us. If you have any friends in Pakistan, or someone is willing to host you…they can speak with the police and then you are their responsibility. You are no longer escorted by the police…which alters your experience completely…I would love to go back to Pakistan to see and learn more. 

DB: After Lahore, it was Wagah Border and then Delhi…so in closing, tell us about what you loved and what was not so cool about riding in Pakistan?

Alex: We loved the food! Especially this lamb sausage called Arisa…absolutely delicious! But what I most liked about Pakistan were the friends we made...they were the highlight. 

What was not so amazing was the pollution and the number of sick children everywhere on our route. For a country that can develop an atomic bomb, including India, I think, it is sad to see children suffer due to lack of food and healthcare. It is a country’s responsibility towards her people, towards her children. The army in Pakistan seems powerful…we saw lots of military might but also lots of poor people…I didn’t understand this.

The incredible Badshahi Mosque in Lahore

We chatted a bit more about what it would be like if an Indian attempted to ride through Pakistan. What if one day our nations could have an adventure bikers exchange program? Then maybe instead of exchanging words of venom and violence we may begin to agree to disagree, and celebrate our diversity. Who knows what could happen when bikers meet in spite of borders?

We said our goodbyes for now and I wished Alex and Teresa well as they explored Rajasthan, Gujarat, MP and other not so touristy places in North India. Alex’s one dream before riding into Myanmar is to see a tiger in the wild. 

Multani Welcome with garlands & Delhi Bikers Welcome with 'Ride-Respect-Relax'

Follow their journey on www.SiamoVivi.it (use google translate as it is in Italian)