Delhi Biker Exemplified - An Interview with Gursaurabh aka Sobby

I am waiting for Gursaurabh at the Green Park, Café Coffee Day (CCD). We’re finally going to meet after a few failed attempts. Inderjeet Singh, his cousin has put me in touch with him. I recollect the first time I saw Gursaurabh or Sobby as he is fondly nicknamed, at the screening of Gaurav Jani’s documentary film ‘One Crazy Ride’ at India Habitat Centre. He was the funny Sardar in the film and on stage that day.

The cover shot of ONE CRAZY RIDE film with Sobby slowly levitating.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mkb4558ym5w

That was a decade ago and we are meeting for the first time today and I didn’t want to be late. The phone rings, its Gursaurabh on the line, “Dude, I am at the CCD where are you?” I scan the café for him, he isn’t there, “Ummm…I am here, are you sure you’re in Green Park?”

Turns out He is in another CCD. Wondering at the logic of having two cafes of the same franchise just hundred meters apart, I hurry to the other end of the market. To find that he isn’t there either!

“Hey bro, I am at the other CCD and I can’t see you” By now I am irritated.

“I think am opposite the Deer Park” Gursaurabh guesses “Am from West Delhi bro, not familiar with this area, can you just find this place?” He asks politely enough but I am running out of time and patience so decide to give this interview one last shot before calling it a day.  

Thankfully after fifteen minutes of driving around I spot him waving at me. 

He seems taller than when I saw him last. But the mischievous face has remained unchanged. Instantly I forget how irritated I was getting there. He insists on getting me a coffee and I then realize why he had requested that I find him. He is there with his wife Tanya, who is from Belarus.

Taking his bike where only 0.01% of Harley owners would ever dare to ride.

It’s always easier to convince a fellow biker to go from café to café in search of you instead of dragging your wife along in search of a biker.

I ask him about what his name means and he gives a brief on his ancestry and stories of Sikh machismo. He is insightful and concludes by stating that we tend to glorify our past and delete the bad bits so whatever I hear I should use my own discretion and verify it elsewhere. 

I comment on his bright turban and wonder what he thinks about our Delhi traffic law that exempts Sikhs from wearing helmets due to religious reasons.

The ridiculously rickety bridge crossing in Arunachal Pradesh.

“Listen, I’d rather stay alive with a helmet than dead with a turban" he says matter-of-factly.

"I don’t brag about such things, you know. When you ride, just wear as much protection gear that’s available and whatever you can afford. Use it, because on your motorbike there are only so many ways you can protect yourself but countless ways you can have an accident.”

He puts me at ease with his practical fundamentals and I sit back and sip my cappuccino as he does the talking.

“Bulletproof jacket ka faida kya hai? Jab goli lagegi, tab faida pata lagega” (What is the worth of a bulletproof jacket? You find out when a bullet hits you)

Tanya adds how initially when she joined Gursaurabh on short rides her greatest concern was about safety. Everything else could be figured out once you stopped. But while riding, you better be prepared.

I ask about their recent epic ride on their Harley Davidson Superlow 883 covering 8350 Km’s through 12 states in 33 days.

Mr & Mrs Toor take a heart-shaped tour through India. 

Unlike a bike like Royal Enfield that has been around for decades and hence has mechanics strewn across the country, a more recent bike like Harley has fewer repair options in India. Which meant that Gursaurabh had to learn how to fix his HD beforehand in case of an emergency.

What were the chances of breaking down on such a journey?

“With a dry weight of 268kg’s…in reality it was close to 300kg…add to that roads that are far from being smooth…in contrast, when I rode through Arunachal Pradesh a decade back I took my Honda Dominator that was only 103 kg’s…so this time I was aware that if I did not know how to fix this Harley, we would be screwed.”

“Small mistake on a small bike is different. But small mistake on a big bike is far more disruptive. With two of us, plus our luggage we were nearly half a tonne (500kgs)! The momentum even at 60kph is dangerous”

Joys of riding through Central India. Bovine traffic jam.

“I spent a lot of time preparing for safety. Got custom built leathers from Pakistan…you know they make the world’s best leather racing gear…so I sent my size…for Tanya we got Cramster, THH helmets and army shoes”

As he gives me the safety specs I suddenly start feeling guilty for taking my wife to Spiti with cargo pants, a windcheater, a cheap helmet and some hiking boots from Gaffar market.

I ask him “So you weren’t worried about taking your wife through the ‘Naxalite’ areas on a bike?”

“See, the only news we ever get about Chattisgarh and Orrisa is that its Naxal Land…full of Maoists and what not…so naturally our friends and family advised us strongly to not ride through these areas.”

“What does our media tell us about these places? Cyclones, floods, naxals killing…no one tells you that there is this incredible cultural diversity in these areas that is so freaking mind-boggling!”

He goes on passionately. Claiming shock at the ignorance of so-called “explorers” and “adventure travelers” who keep taking the same tried and tested guidebook recommended routes. 

Heading towards Sach Pass on the Honda Dominator before the route caught the fancy of other Delhi Bikers.

“Tanya had done the tourist spots…exposure of India was like 22 aperture.”

Tanya adds “My view of India changed while on the bike…I started to note what differentiates each state, clothes, the housing style and architecture, language, people, race, food…the right name should be United States of India! There is so much to see we felt like you need so much more time to explore each state”

Gursaurabh joins in “My responsibility was to ensure Tanya is fine. Now I can’t just stop and sleep in an ATM booth. I have to plan – when to stop, hotel to choose, area, the vibe around the place…”

Biker couple embrace. 

“In rural areas no one is thinking this white lady is my wife…so it is a challenge” 

I nod knowingly.

“For example the carrier I had fabricated broke near Narsinghpur in MP. We found a welding shop but by then it was eight in the night. So we were a bit worried. I said to Tanya, keep your helmet on…this is nothing against the village but at that time…you quickly note there are no women around, plenty of drunk men out…so the smartest thing to do, get the carrier welded and move along, without letting your wife take her helmet off”

Tanya is matter of fact and says “My job at times was shut up and help my husband. I check the GPS – google – like admin support queen…”

“I could fully trust his judgment but some places through Orissa we had to cross real fast…so got a bit tense. I started to enjoy after Chennai”

I ask if she’ll ever do this trip all over again. “Any day!” she replies instantly.

“We had only a month but you need a LOT of time to explore well. Om beach was so good we wanted more time. Compared to Goa, Om beach was so calming.”

“The ride through Rajasthan was special because the locals were friendly and not at all aggressive”

From snow to sand. Enjoying the sunset at India's lands' end.

“When I got back to my office, my colleagues had never heard of Auroville or Pondicherry…not a single name from the east coast was familiar to them.”

“We both are foodies so we ate and tried everything! We had some of the best fried crab, gol-guppas, pigeon meat, non-veg...you name it...and that too for so cheap right on the roadside!”

“And local drinks made of rice, gud (jaggery), sugarcane, was too good!”

Gursaurabh explains how in Maharashtra he tried for the first time a pink drink with ice called ‘Soal Kadi’ and before he knew it, he had drunk TEN GLASSES one after another.

“If you want to sum up our ride it would be ‘Food and Freedom’” Both of them are delighted with this summery. I am getting hungry so I ask him what’s changed since his ride through Arunachal Pradesh.

Another spectacular pause in North East India.

“See, I was just nineteen then…now am ten years older. My goal to ride back then was – lets impress a girl, lets get some attention. I didn’t give a damn about the location, the food or the people. There was just the thrill of being there. The bike was the most overwhelming factor. The loudest voice I listened to”

“It’s the law of diminishing returns – after the initial buzz, it was not enough to just own a bike…so I started fixing bikes, restoring, tinkering, getting into the mechanics of the bike…I got my thrill by fixing them”

“After you fix your first puncture on your own, even if it took you two hours, it’s a huge achievement”

But you start asking questions like, “Why am I doing this? What do I gain? Is it a compulsion?”

“I dream, plan and complete a ride…it gives me great satisfaction but also confidence. You feel like, yes I can do this in other areas of my life too”

“Age may not make you mature but travelling on road does mature you…”

“Solo bikers are far sighted…usually self reliant and quick thinkers, not dependent on others to make decisions. They are decisive. A long distance biker has a different vision…we meet so many people, some hospitable, some hostile…you get a larger perspective on life when you travel far and wide.”

Looking at the next horizon to ride towards.

“As a young boy growing up I had lot of free time. I was answerable to no one…when I look back at that nineteen year old kid…I think “You could have gained so much insight about Arunachal Pradesh…if I was open I could have learned so much…maybe ten years from now I'll say that about today...but am more aware now...so I want to make the most of today.”

“My love for bikes was inherited from my dad…he had his Police bike and one personal. I suppose it’s the Punjabi in me…machines fascinate us…”

“You cannot separate motorcycling from me. I have received much and I have invested much into it…kids in my neighborhood call me ‘Bike-Walleh-Bhaiya’ and am happy with that tag.”

I can’t help but agree how appropriate that name is. We talk a little bit more and then its time to say our goodbyes. He sees me off with an invitation to chill with him at a later date. 

I drive off, hoping it wont be another ten years before we meet again.

Gursaurabh Singh Toor. 'Sobby' to some. 'Bike-Walleh-Bhiaya' to others. Making Delhi Bikers proud for over a decade.

FAST FACTS:

Naam:                       Gursaurabh Singh Toor (Sobby)

Co-Founder              ‘Jawa Yezdi Club-Delhi’

Currently Rides:       Harley Davidson 883, Honda Dominator, Royal Enfield 350, Diesel
                                 Royal Enfield Taurus, Matchless 1941, Jawa 350, Yamaha RD350,
                                 Vespa, Mofa…ok, you get the point!

Recent Epic Ride:    8350 KMs, 12 States, 33 days, Harley Davidson 883, with
                                 wife as navigating partner.

Dream Ride:             South Asia / Malaysia Thailand; Siberia-Mongolia-Russia-Europe

Inspiration:                John Britten. A pioneer, ordinary man with an extraordinary passion. 

Sobby’s stories:        http://www.motarsaikilwala.blogspot.in/

All photos posted with permission from Gursaurabh. All views personal.